All electrical parameters of the meander-like antenna have been measured at connection to the band-pass filter (BPF) with the frequency span covering frequencies from 2.4 GHz to 2.5 GHz. WiFi 2.4 GHz Typical performance (Test board size 80 x 37 mm, PWB top surface ground removal area 10.80 x 6.25 mm, position 1 on PWB) Frequency. It comes with the 2.4 GHz Wifi frequency 2400-2483 MHz for the wifi, Bluetooth, Zigbee wireless applications.Easy Homemade 2.4 Ghz Omni Antenna - GumphQuality Homemade 2.4Ghz Antenna Booster 3DB Rubber OMNI Directional 50w for sale - buy cheap Homemade 2.4Ghz Antenna Booster 3DB Rubber OMNI Directional 50w.- 2.4 GHz WLAN - 2.4 GHz ISM Band System Electrical specifications +25 ☌ Note: Electrical characteristics depend on test board (GP) size and antenna positioning on GP and Ground Clearance area size. The Internal Flexible PCB Antenna 2.4 GHz Wifi Antenna CTRF-FPC-2450-3810-UFL100 is with a 38x10mm size FPC board, and RG 1.13 coaxial cable 100mm length, u.fl connector mount. Description 2.4 GHz Wifi Antenna.
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(Thanks to Oscar for correcting me of this.) Getting the partsAll of the parts are available cheaply from either Maplin and any diy shop. If you decide to use different cable(such as LMR-400) then you need to get the velocity factor of that cable (which will be different), and recalculate all the dimensions.1/2 wavelength = - = - = 0.0405m = 40.5mmF = Frequency of Signal = 2441000000 (middle of 2.4ghz range)The 1/4 wave element is not adjusted by the Velocity factor, as it is in the open, so works out at just 31mm long giving aTotal antenna length of 355mm + fly-lead. The velocity factor of RG-213 is 0.66.
20mm pvc conduit (available from any diy store) Has a RememberInline connectors need to fit 10mm diameter RG-213 cable N connectors, Depending on what you want to connectTo , use either male or female connectors, and inline or bulkhead. Buy more for whatever flylead length This is enough for 2 antenna.
2.4 Ghz Antenna Homemade Trial And Error
I found that cutting the cable to 37mm with 6mm of core stickingOut each end, gets enough overlap to easily solder the segments together. Each sector consists of a shortLength of RG-213 cable, with the central core sticking out each end.When building the antenna, the exact length of eachPiece of RG-213 is not that important, it is the overall length of each sectorThat counts. It gives a much cleaner finish than wirecutters. bench or vice to hold cable while you cut itAfter much trial and error, I found that the neatest way to cut the cable is actually withA junior hacksaw. off cuts of wood to make a jig to aid soldering standard soldering iron (don't need a heavy duty one)
I use the juniorHacksaw to gently saw round the cable sheath to make the mark for each section.The first mark will be at 31mm from the end, which is for the 1/4 waveSection at the top. When sawing the cable it has a tendancy to deform and bend, soLightly sawing round the outside sheath first, but not cuttingThrough, helps give a guide to the cutting for real. The picture below shows the top 3Sections of the antenna, and the 1/4 wave section, showing the order that the cutsThe best way to make the cuts is to mark them out on theCable first.
By leaving plenty of sheathed section either sideOf the cuts, the shielding stays in place when being cut.Now with pliers, gently twist off the end 31mm of sheath & shieldingThis should leave the cenral insulator exposed. You may need to practice a bit first, but you should be able to feel as you cutThrough the shielding into the central insulation. YouWant to cut through the sheath, shielding, and just into the central insulation, but not into theCentral copper wires.
You may find that some of the shielding pulls out when you make this cut,As the 13mm length of sheath cannot hold the shielding tight enough. First make the cut at 37mm down, then the next cut a further 13mmDown. The next mark is 37mmDown, then 13mm, then 37mm, and so on and so forth until you have each of theRemembering to only cut through the sheath, shielding and just into the centralInsulation. The next mark is 13mm down (consists of 6mmCore from each sector and 1mm for cut between sectors) (81mm from end) andIs the top of the sheathed section of the second sector. You should be able to see the twist in the central cableThrough the insulation, which will show you which way to twist off the insulation, resulting in the central core twisting more tightly.The next mark is 37mm down (68mm from end of the cable) and is the cut for other end of theSheathed section of the top sector. Now twist off the insulation.
The clamps onThe right hand side of the picture need to be no more than 30mm long. Make the same cuts as usual for the eighth sector as it will make top of the flylead as well.Now you have all eight sectors you need to check round the end of each sector to make sure that none ofThe shielding is touching the central cable, as odd strands can get left.Now you need to make a gentle V shaped cut with the stanley knife, at each end of the sectors, toExpose the shielding, which is where the central core of the next sector will be soldered.Make sure that the V cuts at each end of the sector line up, othwise, when you come to solder the antenna together, the whole thing will be twisted all around.Once you have all eight sectors finished, its time to put them together.Build a JigIf you do not have a handy helper toHold the sectors together, then you will find it easier to make a small jig fromOffcuts of wood, to hold the sectors together as you solder them. Another sector made.You will need eight sectors in total. Just saw carefully the whole way through the cable.Now you can pull off the sheath and shielding from the each end.Now score round the insulation as you did before, being careful not to cut the central cableNow carry on making cuts 37mm down from the end of the sheath, and then 13mm further down (50mm from the end of the sheath), and then cut through the cable in the middle of the two cuts. See position 4 in the diagram above. You want to cut through the whole cable at the mid point ofThe two cuts you have just made, that is about 43.5 mm from the end of the sheath, or 74.5 mm from the end of the cable.
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